Welcome to our training page! We decided to try and bring a little more of what we do and how we do it to those who visit our site. We will focus on all aspects of training methods we use from the basics to field work. This page will see a lot changes and updates so check it out often!
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First and foremost with a puppy, the most important thing is proper
socialization. Initially, this has nothing to do with the hunting. DBK pups
are handled from the second they are born. They are exposed to kids,
cats, other dogs, noise, strangers and horses so they may come to
understand there is a BIG world around their little feet. Most
importantly, they are taught to play. We believe early on - a puppy
needs to be a puppy. This means from the time they can walk, they are
given safe toys to play with, chew on, fetch. It has been our experience
that a puppy who wants to pick up items and carry them around at an
early age becomes a natural retriever.
Our pups are not released to their new homes until at least ten weeks of age. This gives them ample time to
grow more confident as they become weaned. It also allows us more time to learn each pup's strengths and
any weaknesses. 6 - 8 WEEKS: In the pictures above you see DBK pups pointing a wing. We introduce a
wing early on, around 6 weeks of age. This tells us how strong the pointing instinct is. A pup that will slam on
the brakes and straighten up their tail at an early age has the natural ability. They don't yet understand why they
are pointing but they know, they FEEL , that is what they are supposed to do. Most pups are merely sight
pointing at this age. But with the ability there, it is up to us to teach them why they are pointing and help them
learn to use their nose. What this means: REPETITION! While they think they are playing with the wing and it is
fun to them - it is also a learning experience that is built on. The key is not to overwork the puppy. They are like
little children. Their attention span is practically non-existent at this point! Keep sessions to a minimum of
10-15 minutes a day for now. When they lose interest they are done so it is best to end your "training time" while they still show a desire to play with the
wing. As your pup becomes a little older you can increase your session time. Let your pup determine the pace at this age. Fetch play also starts around
eight weeks. This too should be a game to them. Ball up on old sock and throw it for your pup, chances are he's going to go get it because he can't help
himself! He wants to play the game and when he goes after it...that's half the battle already! Always ask him to come back to you but don't punish him if he
doesn't. A little later when the leash is introduced you can begin calling them back and pulling them to you. But keep in mind it's best if the pup knows it's
name when you are calling him back to!
10-12 WEEKS: The next step we take is teaching basic obedience. This can be quite a process but a treat always gives them the motivation to pay
attention. Our favorite -- SIT -- a lot of bird hunters don't ever want there dog to sit, however, when taught properly it is in an incredibly useful tool. We've had
many folks visit our kennel or see our dogs that appreciate the discipline this teaches the dog. They don't sit on point! They sit when asked. If you know
anything about the English Pointer, you know they can be a bit....hyper, sometimes in excess. We taught Diesel to sit as a pup because he could be so
overpowering to our young sons, even though he was just playing. Having him sit made him understand he had to calm down and pay attention. We also
introduce a leash around this time, mostly allowing them to go wherever they choose as they come to associate the leash with only being able to go so far.
This is also important because it helps a pup understand when it is tied or staked. Whether hunting or at field trials you want to be able to tie out your

Our pups are always carrying something around, this time one found a plastic bottle in the yard and then it was GAME ON!
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dog without him panicking and hurting himself.
On a daily basis, we continue to work the pups: wing, fetching, sitting, leashing. This is the time the pups personality
really becomes evident. And adjusting training methods may become necessary. Some pups may be more
soft-hearted than others, some may need a firmer voice to get their attention. If you are too hard on a puppy when
they are young - you are setting the pup and yourself up for guaranteed failure. The goal should be to TEACH the
puppy. Remember, he or she doesn't know what to do or not to do. Don't expect more than they can give you. Give
them time to discover who they are and what they can do!
AND MOST OF ALL...KEEP IT FUN!!
No, that's not a hog the pups pinned up. They are just playing with our "fluffy" heeler Cheyenne!!
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